Photo: winecouture.it
The reason is the unusually hot weather. For several weeks, temperatures hovered between 37 and 38 °C, and precipitation was below normal. As a result, the grapes ripened much faster: this season began about a month earlier than it did three decades ago.
Instead of August 10—harvesting has already begun on August 2
Berlucchi, Franciacorta’s largest producer, had originally planned to begin the harvest on August 10. But by the end of July, it became clear that the Pinot Nero grapes, used for sparkling wines and rosé, had ripened ahead of schedule, according to the AP. The sugar content in the grapes was rising rapidly, so delaying the harvest was risky.
Within two days, the company mobilized its workers and prepared its equipment. Now, they are trying to get the grapes to the winery as quickly as possible before they overheat. Berlucchi uses up to 24 presses per day, and processing continues late into the evening.
The heat also limits the duration of work. According to regional regulations, outdoor work is suspended from 12:30 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. However, winemakers say that on the hottest days, returning to the vineyards after that time is already too difficult.
For sparkling wine producers, the timing of the harvest is particularly critical: as the grapes ripen, their sugar content increases while acidity decreases. If the optimal window is missed, the grapes may lose the characteristics necessary for the future sparkling wine.
Early harvesting poses a new risk to the industry
The season has shifted not only in Franciacorta. In Sicily, the harvest for still wines began as early as late July, and some estates in Tuscany have also started harvesting earlier than usual.
For Berlucchi, this shift in timing is significant. The company produces about 4 million bottles of Franciacorta per year, accounting for approximately 20% of the region’s consortium’s total production—about 20 million bottles. About 90% of the production is sold in Italy, with the remainder exported to Germany, Switzerland, the United States, and Japan.
Winemakers now have to begin monitoring ripeness earlier and be prepared to adjust their harvesting and processing plans within a matter of days. According to the Italian Winemakers’ Association, earlier harvests are becoming a general trend across Europe’s wine-producing regions—from Italy to France and Germany.
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