Photo © ARPAT
According to an OLAF press release, investigators initially identified 4,200 metric tons of textile waste, consisting primarily of acrylic fibers. Such materials fall under the category of waste requiring special processing, so their export and disposal are subject to strict environmental regulations. According to the investigation, the shipments were intentionally labeled as suitable for reuse, which allowed the operators to avoid the costs of proper processing.
During joint inspections in Turkey, OLAF representatives, Italian environmental experts, and Turkish authorities discovered an additional 2,100 metric tons of textile waste at a warehouse belonging to a recycling facility suspected of violating environmental laws. In addition, another 768 metric tons of waste of Italian origin were found in the port of Mersin; according to OLAF, this waste was also mislabeled and had been prepared for illegal disposal.
The investigation has already led to large-scale investigative actions in Italy. The Carabinieri conducted searches at a commercial complex in Brescia, seized the company’s assets, its vehicle fleet—which was allegedly used in the illegal export scheme—as well as financial assets totaling approximately 12 million euros.
According to OLAF Director-General Petr Klement, such schemes allow criminal organizations to generate illegal profits by evading the costs of waste processing and compliance with environmental requirements.
The investigation serves as yet another confirmation of the growing problem of textile waste management in Europe. According to European Union estimates, millions of metric tons of used textiles are generated in the region each year, yet only a small fraction of this volume is sent for reuse or recycling.
Against this backdrop, France and four other EU member states have called on the European Commission to tighten regulations on the fast fashion market. According to the authors of the initiative, the rapid growth in the supply of cheap clothing through international online platforms encourages excessive consumption, increases the volume of textile waste, and places an additional burden on European recycling systems. The countries are also proposing to strengthen oversight of cross-border textile shipments, expand manufacturers’ responsibilities, and accelerate the transition to a circular economy.
Follow our updates
