According to the producers of such wines, our society still has little understanding of the difference between wines with IGP and wines without IGP. First of all, because of the incorrect use of the name of regions as a place of origin. “The Wine Vernissage” was an opportunity to fill in some information gaps. A total of 43 wineries participated in it, of which 24 presented products with IGP, the rest were allowed to present sparkling wines without IGP, because the National Bureau of Grapes and Wine started a campaign to promote domestic “spumants” (it is planned to find a unique name for them, which will reflect the geographical belonging to Moldova).
Out of the total number of participants, only two were small producers of wines with IGP – Kara-Gani and Domeniu la Prut, although currently about 70 wineries operate in this segment. That is, for the first time, almost all of them were not eligible to participate in this celebration of life, and many took offense. Their indignation shows that even among winemakers there is not enough understanding why Moldova needs a quality system for wine products. Thus, the “Vernissage of Wines” exposed a long-standing problem.
Small producers believe that their wines are of the “premium” category, but this speaks about their price, not about the officially confirmed quality category. According to the Law on Grapes and Wine, in our country, wines are categorized as follows (from top to bottom): wine with DOP, wine with IGP, wine varietal and wine. If a wine has no geographical affiliation, it officially belongs to the last or penultimate quality category. Therefore, producers of good and very good wines need to be concerned about official recognition of their quality, even though many entrepreneurs say that they do not see the benefit of obtaining the quality category “wine with IGP”.
Fautor currently produces 29 wines with IGP – the most in Moldova. It was one of the first to get involved in this process and is now already working on the DOP.
“In any activity there comes a period when you invest and you don’t get the result immediately. But if you believe in what you are doing, see the future, the potential, you don’t expect immediate rewards,” says production director Tatiana Croitoru. – We have 10 years of experience in creating wines with protected geographical indication. I have always been convinced that this category of wine should be created and promoted because it gives value to the terroir where the wine comes from. Just like for a person, the origin of the wine is important to the wine. When the Wine Producers Association was created with IGP Valul lui Traian, it was the only way to highlight the micro-zone in which we work. I believe that we are very lucky to create wines in a place with beautiful historical forests – the Tigeci codras, the terraces of the Prut, which are an important natural factor in creating the characteristics of the terroir. On the Tigheci hills there is the highest point in the south of Moldova (301 meters), the soil there is extraordinary. All these natural factors have been given to us so that we can benefit from them”.
When the Fautor business owners bought plots of land in the region and planted vineyards there, they didn’t quite realize its value. The realization came later. Since there is potential here for red, white and rosé wines, this should be utilized, and the range of wines should be extensive. At the Wine Vernissage, Fautor presented 20 wines from IGP Valul lui Traian. There was a queue to taste them.
“If not every visitor, at least every second one, knows that he has come to the Vernissage dedicated to IGP wines,” continues Tatiana Croitoru. – And if before that he did not understand what it is, he will surely leave more informed than he came. This is a great success for winemakers, because it is very difficult to convey information to a huge number of people, but through Vernissage it was possible. The Association of Wine Producers with IGP Valul lui Traian is the only association in Moldova that organized (last year) an event dedicated to wines with IGP. This means that we are enthusiastic about promoting these wines and want them to be a stepping stone to DOP wines”.
As for the wines presented, the potential of Moldovan winemaking is clearly visible. Wines with IGP from both local and international varieties reflect their regions of origin very well, because the “geography” of the wines only benefits them. It is interesting to compare wines from the same varietal but from different regions. Of the many wines tasted, I would like to highlight the best Sauvignon Blanc not aged – Chateau Coju?na (Migdal-P), Feteasca Alba – Cricova, Feteasca Neagra – Vinaria din Vale, Riesling de Rhein – Fautor, Orange – both Fautor wines, aged Chardonnay – Kazayak-vin, Cabernet Sauvignon – Vinaria Purcari.
Among the sparkling wines there were a lot of novelties. The most extravagant was Amber Cuvee sec (orange sparkling wine from Cricova), awarded as the best sparkling wine with the Vernisaj Efervescent prize. The most memorable were classic Bernardazzi (Chardonnay & Feteasca Alba, 36 months on lees) and Anya (Viorica & Floricica) – bruts from Novac Winery, Tomai Black brut (Tomai-Vinex), Rara Neagra rose brut and Long Charmat series (Radacini Wines), Poiana Feteasca Regala brut metoda traditionala (Poiana Codrilor).
Moldovan winemakers also reflected the fashionable trend – brut natur sparkling wines: Mile?tii Mici presented Cuvee des Fleurs (Viorica & Riton), Kvint – Viorica, Apriori Wine – Maestro Cuvee Blanc and Cuvee Rose, I’m Winery – Amurg Zero, Radacini Wines – Metier.
